In his ‘Address to Edinburgh’ which Rabbie Burns wrote in 1786, he described the city in this way:
‘Edina! Scotia’s darling seat!
All hail thy palaces and tow’rs
Where one, beneath a Monarch’s feet,
Sat legislation’s sov’reign pow’rs.
Edinburgh is such a vibrant, energetic, and fascinating city, and one which is still considered by many to be a ‘darling seat!’. It would be nearly another 100 years before the foundation stone of St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral in Palmerston Place would be laid in 1874, and the building wasn’t consecrated until 1879. It is the mother church of all Scottish Episcopal churches in Scotland and the see of the Bishop of Edinburgh. From the outside, it is indeed a beautiful piece of architecture, with a central spire that stands high above the city. However, it isn’t until one passes through the West Door that one realises just how glorious Sir George Gilbert Scott’s cathedral really is. Everywhere one looks, one’s eyes are drawn to something beautiful, from the stained glass by Paolozzi, and the rood cross by Robert Lorimer, to the high altar reredos by John Oldrid Scott, and the Father Willis organ. For those of us attending the Local Gathering at St. Mary’s this was clearly going to be a very special experience.
Following a warm welcome by Imogen Morgan, the cathedral’s Assistant Director of Music, our group walked to one of the cathedral’s most treasured buildings, the Song School, which was purpose-built for the choir in 1885, and designed by John Oldrid Scott, the son of the cathedral’s architect. We were fortunate to receive a guided tour of the Phoebe Anna Traquair paintings which adorn all four walls of the building. The North and South walls illustrate the Benedicte, in which all parts of creation praise God. On one of the other walls there are portraits of famous faces, including Tennison, and Thomas Carlyle, as well as a variety of craftsmen with whom she worked at the Edinburgh Social Union. The paintings on the final West Wall illustrate the Biblical song of the angels, the Sanctus (Holy, holy, holy). These are astonishing and breathtaking pieces of art which should be on everyone’s bucket-list. A truly memorable experience.
After a short period of time exploring the charms of the cathedral, the group were privileged to listen to an open rehearsal by the Cathedral Choir led by the Director of Music, Duncan Ferguson. There has been a choir at the Cathedral since 1879 and choral music has been at its heart ever since. All the choristers attend St. Mary’s Music School where they receive both an academic and musical education of the highest quality. Girls were admitted to the choir in 1978, the first cathedral in the UK with a similar pattern of weekday and weekend services to do so. It is a very fine choir indeed! The top line rings out clearly and cleanly and these young singers are strongly supported by an immensely talented back row. Evensong included William Byrd’s Second Service which allowed us to hear some gifted solo singers, along with a chamber organ which was recently gifted to the Cathedral. The service began with an Introit – Regina Coeli by Anerio, which showcased the choir’s mesmerising sound, and the Preces and Responses were composed by Martin Neary, the former Organist and Director of Music at both Winchester Cathedral, and Westminster Abbey. The Anthem was Samuel Sebastian Wesley’s, Blessed be the God and Father, which includes a heavenly treble solo. Such a special service from beginning to end!
Following several cups of tea and a few slices of cake, the group were provided with one final experience before our time together ended; an organ recital on the Father Willis Organ given by Imogen Morgan. This included four pieces:
- Organ Sonata No. 4 by Felix Mendelssohn
- Adagio in E by Frank Bridge
- Toccata, fugue et hymne sur Ave maris stella by Flor Peeters, and
- Church Bells Beyond the Stars by Cecilia McDowall
These outstanding pieces not only demonstrated the talents and gifts of the organist but also the beauty, range, and quality of the instrument built in 1879 by Henry Willis.
This wonderful, and unique event paid tribute to a very special place of worship, and its outstanding choir, led by professional musicians of the highest quality. As we left the building to return to the chilly winds blowing across the city, I think that we all felt so fortunate to have spent some quality time in such a magnificent setting.
by Dr Bob Horton
Regional Coordinator (Scotland), Cathedral Music Trust
